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Engine Bay
 

Engine Bay

Throttle Linkage Issues



My landy was originally diesel and was converted to petrol by a previous owner some time in the 1970′s.
The original diesel throttle linkage was modified (bodged) to work as a petrol linkage,
however this resulted in a very messy arrangement that was nearly impossible to adjust and had way too much free play.

To resolve this I purchased new linkage rods and levers, however on reassembly it just didn’t look right at the bell crank on the carb side.
A couple of posts to the Series 2 Forum and a visit to a mate’s Series IIA to compare parts revealed that I had a Solex carb bell crank lever rather than a Zenith carb crank lever.
This matters because the throttle operation is essentially opposite in the two carbs.

You can see the difference between the two below, Solex is on the left , Zenith on the right.

Final Painting



Last time I used up all of my supply of Deep Bronze Green before I finished all of my panels. Thankfully I was able to obtain a 2.5 litre tin from Jawel Paints via mail order.

So the two wings and two door tops got a coat, plus some of the other parts that were a bit patchy were touched up.
All of a sudden I’ve gone from a pile of flimsy looking birmabright to a real looking landy!

Front Panel



Another small task completed today was the assembly of the front panel, radiator, electric fan and wiring for the headlights.
I’ve opted to put the fan in front of the radiator as I felt it was neater than having it intrude into the engine bay. Also I think it will make access to the engine a little less cluttered.
The fan came with a body mounting kit as well as the direct though the radiator nylon tie kits. I went for the easy option and used the nylon ties direct through the matrix.
At the same time I fitted the new plastic headlight bowls (the old ones had rusted so badly that beam adjustment was impossible) and the front part of the wiring loom. That means that I should be able to just drop the whole unit in place once the engine is on.

Shown below, the panel is upside down as it’s more stable to work with that way!

Wiring



I’ve had a busy June with holidays, family visits and even a wedding, so there’s not been quite as much progress to report on, but I have done a bit…..
When first released the Series 2 base model had brake/rear lights only. Whilst most have now been fitted with indicators, I wanted to fit some additional lighting for extra safety, so I’ll be adding both a fog light and a reverse light.
The units I’ve used are cheap Series 3 / Defender lights, and both take a normal 21Watt lamp similar to the indicator lamp.
Rather than running the extra wires on their own, I decided to run the cables with the existing Autosparks loom.
I was able to obtain the correct(ish) colours for the cables (green & black for reverse, red & orange for the fog light), so the modified loom will still be easy to understand.
I found the best way to do this was to stretch the loom out on the table, raised about four inches, so that I could spiral wrap cloth tape to secure it all up nicely.

Shown below is the final rear lighting layout and the method of loom alteration.

Wiper Motor Restoration



When I started my restoration, the very first part I rejuvenated was one of the Lucas windscreen wiper motors. It’s quite fitting that the very last part to restore is the other wiper motor.

With this finished, the task moves from restoration to one of reassembly.
I thought I’d document my work and provide a comprehensive “how to” so others can use it as a guide, Plus the other half wanted to experiment with her new camera, so please find below….

Having removed the wiper motor from the vehicle, the first step is to use a craft knife to remove the rubber fixing gasket from the windscreen mounting.

With the rubber removed, use a flat bladed screwdriver to unscrew the two fixing nuts, then remove the mounting block. This can be cleaned up using a solvent like paraffin.

Using a small spanner, push the exposed spring down to give yourself easy access to the circlip that holds the wiper spindle in place. This can be removed by hand, but be careful that it doesn’t ping off and get lost.

With the clip removed the spindle can be removed from the back of the motor and the spring removed from the front. Clean all the parts and keep them to the side.

The front cover will be removed next, use a small BA spanner or socket to remove the three retaining nuts. The front cover will most likely be stuck fast, so you may need to use a craft knife to loosen the cork seal, but be careful not to cut through it as spares are unavailable and you’d need to spend ages cutting out a new one from a sheet of cork – way too fiddly a job to contemplate!

Once the cover is off, it’s very clear to see why the old motors can seem sluggish as most of the grease has turned to a thick mayonnaise due to water ingress. You can pick out the gears and mechanism then clean in paraffin or petrol. Beware of the small brass bushes that look like washers, you’ll want to ensure that you don’t loose them when you are cleaning things up!
You can use a toothbrush and cotton buds to get all the old grease from in-between the gaps of the base plate once the gears are removed.

With the mechanicals stripped out and cleaned, we can turn to the electrical side of things. Undo the two fixing at the back of the motor and withdraw the cover to reveal the motor. You need to be careful not to damage the motors +ve supply cable which sits on a rubber insulating plate.

Next, the motor’s brush assembly plate can be removed by unfastening the two nuts at either side of the coil. You’ll also need to disconnect the coil cable from the plate, just use a soldering iron to do this, then the plate should lift off easily. You can see the two carbon brushes in the last photo. We’ll renew these as part of the course.

The rotor can be removed now, then using a small BA spanner to remove the two nuts holding the stator in place. All items can be give a good clean with a solvent soaked rag.
Depending on the rotor condition, you may want to run some very fine emery paper around the commutator to clean and smooth out any imperfections.

At this stage you can clean / paint strip the motor housings and give the base plate a really good clean to get rid of the last of the gunk. A coat of matt black paint finished the steel front cover nicely, though to be 100% accurate, I think you’d want to paint it with crackle effect paint.

With the parts all cleaned, you can reassemble the motor. When fitting the stator you need to double check that the rotor will spin freely before tightening up the two nuts.

As a matter of course I replace the brushes, however the closest replacements were a little too large, so they were sanded down to fit. With new brushes in place the brush plate assembly is refitted to the rest of the motor. Finally the cables are soldered back in place and the cover refitted. I’ve renewed the earth cable within the motor as the old one was frayed and damaged.

That completes the electrical side, over to the mechanical side. The gears are resembled and packed with grease. I’ve used a red Teflon grease from Halfords which is designed for cycles. It’s waterproof and very satble so it won’t ‘weep’ out over time. The key is to really get the grease in as it will protect the motor against any water ingress.

Finally the painted front cover is refitted followed by the spindle and mounting block. I bought a spare motor to have for parts – it makes an interesting before and after.

A quick night’s work.



I was checking through my boxes of parts that were removed when I stripped down the land rover and found the driver’s door lock and the interior windscreen brackets in need of a clean and a paint. This type of small job is nice to do when you get a night free and beats sitting inside watching TV!
Below is the end result – shiny!

Tub Reassembly



Following painting, I’ve been able to start putting things together again and first up was the rear tub. 

The tub below is actually from a later Series 3 model and had holes in all the wrong places, so these were patched and filled. 
The main difference is in the rear lighting position as the 3 tub has lights mounted in top and bottom position rather than together as shown here.
The galv cappings are held on with domed head rivets, set the traditional way with a snap and look ace! The floor has been replaced with a sheet of chequerplate, but this has been painted to de-bling it somewhat – hope it dosn’t offend anyone too much!
I’ve actually only done one side as I ran out of rivets, so that’s next on the list!

Painting



Over the bank holiday we got some good weather so I decided to go ahead with the painting. All the aluminium panels have had a coat of etch primer, then standard primer and a final coat of deep bronze green on everthing except the door tops and wings – I ran out of paint!

Some pictures are below, many more in the gallery (Click Here!)

Tub & Tailgate Bits.



Got a bit of Nitromors onto the rear tailgate and tub fittings tonight, cleaned up and cold zinc sprayed – lovely!

Also shown are the wing to bullhead brackets (black) and bolt plates (red oxide) which I fabricated a couple of nights ago. I don’t recall there being bold plates when I took the wings off, but these will make reassemble much easier.


How to create a paint mule for your bulkhead.



I built a ‘mule’ to carry the bulkhead in preparation for paint spraying. 

After considering several different ideas including a fancy welded frame that would pivot, I went very low tech and took a much simpler approach, but one that I think is so easy, it should be come a standard!!
Take 8 “L” shaped corner brackets, some M10 threaded rod, a few nuts, washers and an 8 foot length of dry wall studding (all for about £15 from B&Q) and you can build this: